11. A desert is not merely made up of sand…

The very next day after I arrived in Sebha, the university authorities informed me that I had been posted to the Ghat Arts & Science College, which was 660 km away. They also mentioned that since classes had already begun, I needed to leave for Ghat immediately. As instructed, a taxi was arranged to pick me up from my hotel the next day. The taxi driver arrived at 11:30 a.m. and took me on the journey toward Ghat. Throughout the route, the vast Sahara—the world's largest desert—stretched endlessly before me. Everywhere I looked, there was sand, sand, and more sand! This was the first time in my life that I was seeing a desert, and it was none other than the mighty Sahara. Before witnessing it in person, I had heard many tales about deserts: that they are all about sand and heat. But it was only after I started living there that I learned that even deserts have an extreme winter! I had imagined deserts to be barren places where nothing grows, where water is scarce, and where people must travel miles in search of water, among many other preconceived notions. Now, I was experiencing it all first hand. Ironically, I had come to this vast desert in search of the greenery of life. Not long after I arrived in Ghat, I set out to explore the Sahara Desert with my Indian colleagues and Dr. Sunil, an Indian dentist working at a hospital there. For some reason, an intense desire grew within me to venture into the heart of the desert, to delve into its depths and discover its mysteries.

The Sahara Desert, the largest in the world, spans an area of approximately nine million square kilometers, covering about one-third of the African continent. It is divided into three regions: Eastern Sahara, Central Sahara, and Western Sahara, with the central part located in Libya and Algeria. The town of Ghat, where we live, is right in the heart of the Sahara! It’s a desert all around, with this small town in the middle. From any direction, if we walk just a short distance outside the town, all we see is sand, sand, and more sand! Initially, like many others, I believed there was nothing in the desert but sand. However, when I ventured into the Sahara, my perceptions turned upside down. Scattered here and there were small sand dunes, patches of green shrubs growing nearby, tall trees standing a bit farther away, and small freshwater springs. There were tiny streams, hot water springs, and patches of fertile land used for agriculture, nourished by vast underground water reserves. The Sahara also experiences rain once or twice a year. I marvelled at how much the enormous desert held within it! I told myself that discovering its hidden treasures only required patience and curiosity. The Sahara Desert is also home to the majestic Akakus Mountains, which stretch about 200 kilometres in length. The range begins near the village of Awinat, about 200 kilometres from Ghat, passes through Ghat, and extends to a village called Al Barkat, located eight kilometres from Ghat. When locals are asked how such a mountain was formed in the middle of the desert, they say that there was once a sea here. Massive rocks and mountains existed within this sea, and after the sea dried up, only the sand and rocky mountains remained.

The Akakus Mountains are ancient, and historians believe that civilizations existed here even before the Egyptian civilization emerged. This is evident from caves within the mountains that date back over 12,000 years, containing relics and paintings that prove human habitation. Archaeologists have found tools and images attributed to these early inhabitants. The Akakus Mountains are like a crown jewel of the Sahara Desert, adding a unique beauty to this vast expanse. It is a must-see attraction for tourists visiting the Sahara. Many European travelers come here, set up tents in the desert, and stay for two or three days before leaving. About twelve kilometers from Ghat, deep within the Sahara, lies a hot water spring with unique medicinal properties. Locals say it can cure joint pain, arthritis, and skin diseases quickly. Two separate pipes from the spring channel water into large baths, one for men and another for women. Each bath can accommodate about eight people at a time. Patients with joint pain, arthritis, or skin diseases spend hours soaking in these baths. Many people travel from faraway places, set up tents, and stay for months to receive treatment before returning home.

There is a town called Awinat, located 100 kilometres from Ghat, in the Sahara Desert. In this desert, there are rare natural rock formations that are unique and visually stunning. About 350 kilometres from here, near the town of Obari, there is a lake called "Gibran." This lake is extremely beautiful and is one of the most famous tourist attractions in Libya. It is surrounded by sand dunes and encircled by date palm trees. The name "Gibran" is derived from two words: "Geber" (meaning grave) and "An" (a name). It is believed that an ancient nomadic group may have camped here for a few days, leaving behind their graves, which can still be seen today, partially buried in the sand. A little farther from here is the village of Fezan. Geologists believe that tools and weapons from the Paleolithic and Neolithic periods have been found here. People who believe that water can only be found in an oasis are unaware that there is abundant groundwater beneath the desert. In the Sahara Desert (though this may vary in other areas), groundwater is plentiful, and water can be found at depths of around forty to fifty feet. Recent research by geologists has revealed that groundwater is ten times more abundant here than in other places. This means that water can easily be obtained by drilling a borehole, and it is often fresh and sweet. You may not believe it, but near our college in Ghat, there is a bore well that has been supplying water for about 35 years, enough to meet the needs of half the town, yet the groundwater level hasn't decreased, according to the locals. In my six years of living in Ghat, I’ve never seen people struggle for water. Despite being in a region where it hardly ever rains, water continues to be stored here and increases year after year. I still don’t have an answer to the question of how water is stored and replenished in this area.

In 1953, while exploring for oil, an enormous amount of fresh water was discovered beneath the land here, revealing a vast groundwater resource. Later, in 1969, when Gaddafi came to power, he initiated a man-made irrigation project to make use of this resource. By 1984, the project was completed, earning the title of the world's largest man-made river. Libya has around 1,300 wells, from which 7,100,000 cubic meters of water are supplied daily to cities like Tripoli, Benghazi, and Sirte. The same water is also used for farming in the desert, where people cultivate crops and sustain their livelihoods. Agricultural activities in Libya are mainly concentrated in coastal areas. Here, they grow crops like barley, wheat, tomatoes, oranges, apples, and melons. Most of the vegetables are sent to Tripoli and Benghazi, while in the desert regions, they grow small quantities of wheat, barley, melons, tomatoes, and especially dates. In the southern part of Libya, there are many villages, where people raise goats and grow grass to feed them. However, milk and yogurt are imported from Misrata, about 1500 kilometers away, while many vegetables come from Sebha and Obari. Interestingly, the people here raise goats to sell for profit during festivals. They buy small goats at low prices, raise them well in their farmhouses, and sell them at higher prices during Ramadan and Eid celebrations.

I once had the same misconceptions about the desert, thinking it was barren, with nothing growing, no water, and people walking miles to find water. But when I stepped into the desert, all my misconceptions melted away like mist. Photos: Photo 1: Greenery seen amidst the Sahara Desert Photo 2: Akakus Mountain Photo 3: Hot water well Photo 4: Camels in the Sahara Desert Photo 5: Natural rock art near Avinath Photo 6: Gebran Lake near Obari