1. In the Land of a Dictator, the Principle of Equality

When the Avadhi magazine team asked me to write about Libya, I was momentarily unsure of where to begin. Should I start with the line on a board at Tripoli's international airport that deeply resonated with the principle of equality when I first landed there? Or should I write about the incident from the second day, when I struggled to ask a taxi driver in English, “Where is the toilet?” because I didn’t know Arabic? Should I narrate how Libyans greet each other with phrases like “Salam Aleikum,” “Kaif Halal,” “Koais,” and proceed to ask about everyone’s well-being individually—"How are you? How is your father? How is your mother? How is your elder sister? Younger sister? Elder brother? Younger brother?"—and, in the end, even inquire about the sheep, chickens, and camels in your field, which we found amusing? Or should I describe how, underestimating their English skills, we entered a classroom only to be stunned by the fluency of some Libyans? Or should I write about the tribal communities here, who, unaffected by the intense influences of globalization, continue to live modern lives while preserving their values? Should I begin with the biting cold here, which chills to the bone despite sitting by heaters, or the scorching desert heat that feels unbearable? Whenever I ponder where to begin, my thoughts inevitably turn to Gaddafi. His grim end comes to mind. The 42 years of his rule, his ideologies, his downfall—how did someone like him meet such a fate? Libya and Gaddafi were synonymous. How could someone so prominent vanish into oblivion? Without writing about him first, what else about Libya could I write? Therefore, I start with him, intending to explore other topics after discussing his story. In 2007, I was selected as an English lecturer at the University of Sebha in Libya and left India to travel thousands of miles across the seas to this distant land. Friends and colleagues mocked me, saying, "Leaving our beautiful country, and of all places, going to an African nation? Are you out of your mind?" Does intellect or money differentiate between Africa, Europe, or Arab countries? I am someone who goes where my intellect is valued. For intellect and the earnings it brings, geography holds no barriers. I am neither a blind patriot who refuses opportunities just to cling to the notion that one must work only in their own country, nor am I the kind of person who would pretend to stay back in the name of patriotism because of a lack of opportunities. So, I answered their comments with a dismissive smile and flew here. Before leaving, countless people shared their opinions. One colleague declared with an air of authority, “Oh, Africa? That’s the end of your story! It’s a wretched continent. Why would you even go there?” Another cautioned, “Yellow fever, AIDS—it’s rampant there. Be careful!” Some expressed concern, saying, “There’s so much theft and murder there. Be cautious. Don’t venture out alone at night.” Others mocked, “If you want to go abroad, it should be to the UK, USA, Australia, or Europe. What joy is there in going to other countries?” A few warned, “It’s a country under the control of the autocratic Muammar Gaddafi. The conditions there aren’t great. Why are you even going?” Despite all this, who lets go of an opportunity when it comes knocking? I decided to go. Moreover, Gaddafi was known to be a controversial, eccentric figure—a man who stood up even against powerful nations like the United States. Such unconventional personalities are not only fascinating but often extraordinary achievers. I was curious to learn more about him up close. And I wanted to see for myself what life was like in a country led by someone who dared to challenge the likes of America. That curiosity brought me here. When I first landed at Tripoli International Airport in Libya, what immediately caught my attention was a signboard with an inscription. It was about the lower-tier workers and read: "Do not call them wage workers. They are your partners." Reading this, I was both surprised and sceptical: “What is this? A board like this in the land of a dictator? Could such an egalitarian principle actually exist here?” However, when I began working with Libyans, I realized that this wasn’t just an empty slogan on a board but a truth practiced in their daily lives. Here, everyone is treated equally. There is no hierarchy of “superior” and “subordinate,” nor is it permissible for a superior to dominate or oppress their juniors. From an attendant to the dean of a college, everyone is considered equal. An attendant could sit on the dean’s chair without hesitation, use the dean’s computer without seeking permission, or have coffee with him. Similarly, a dean is not bound by the notion that he must work only from his position of authority. If needed, he would walk to a clerk and get work done personally. And if the clerk were busy, the dean would wait until his task was completed. To those of us unaccustomed to such practices, it initially seemed strange. Over time, however, it became routine. I was amazed to see the head of the examination board (Controller of Examinations) sitting casually in a clerk’s room, chatting with him warmly. We wondered, “What is this? An officer in such a high-ranking position sitting and chatting with a junior in his chamber?” In fact, this is a concept that should exist in a so-called democratic country like ours (though it doesn’t). But to witness this in a nation under a dictator was astonishing. What’s more, the labor minister of the Ghāt region, where I worked, was one of my colleagues. Despite being a minister, he had no special government car or privileges. He came to the college in his own car, without any security or escort, taught classes, and left. Even in banks and government offices, he received no special treatment. Like everyone else, he stood in line and completed his tasks. At times, when his car broke down, he would walk to the college, teach, and leave. How was such a concept of equality possible in a dictator’s country? While pondering this, I came across a book in the college library titled The Green Book, which detailed Gaddafi’s social, economic, and political ideologies. Reading it answered all my questions. I was astonished by his ideas. Gaddafi didn’t just write about these concepts but implemented them practically, embedding the principle of equality deeply into the minds of the people.

If Gaddafi preached such socialist principles, why didn’t he relinquish his throne easily and avoid meeting such a tragic end? The unfortunate reality is that Gaddafi was portrayed as a villain by all global media, including Kannada media, from the very beginning. Sitting far away, we tend to believe everything these English channels tell us as the truth. However, if you come here and ask the people, you’ll hear a completely different story. They curse these English channels vehemently. According to them, these channels are bogus and biased, working solely in favour of Americans and Europeans. What most people don’t know—and what the media never revealed—is that as the revolution in Libya escalated, Gaddafi invited some rebel leaders and said, “Alright, I will step down from power. Let’s conduct elections as you suggest. Whoever wins the elections can take over the government.” However, the rebels knew very well that if Gaddafi contested in the elections, he would undoubtedly win. Therefore, they refused his proposal, declaring, “No, we will fight and win through revolution.” At the same time, the U.S. and its allies, who were waiting for this opportunity, extended their support to the rebels. This led to a full-fledged revolution in Libya. Eventually, they brought down a powerful dictator, completely eradicating his influence and celebrating their victory with pride.

But come here and have a casual conversation with the locals about this matter, and you’ll get a completely different perspective. They paint an entirely different picture: "The revolution had America’s involvement behind it. They always harbored hatred for Gaddafi and had their eyes on Libya’s oil reserves. Back in 1988, Libya was accused of bombing the Pan Am flight over Scotland. Around 250 Americans lost their lives in that incident. Gaddafi denied involvement for a long time. As a result, America imposed sanctions on Libya for 12 years. Eventually, Gaddafi handed over the accused to them and paid compensation of around $2.7 billion to the victims' families. However, a year before the revolution broke out, Gaddafi demanded that the U.S. government compensate Libya for the losses suffered during the sanctions period. He even warned that he would shut down operations of U.S. oil companies in Libya if they didn’t comply. But the U.S. government, as usual, ignored his warnings. Enraged, Gaddafi followed through on his threat. In October, three months before the revolution began, he shut down American companies operating in Libya. This infuriated the Americans." Here’s another piece of information you should know. Until 1943, Libya was under Italian control. However, after Italy's defeat in World War II, Libya came under the administration of the Allied forces. Later, on December 24, 1951, Libya was freed from all such subjugation and declared an independent nation, with the rulers appointing a king of their choice. King Idris became a mere puppet in their hands. However, in 1969, when Gaddafi came to power and solidified his dominance in Libya, he demanded compensation from the Italians for occupying the country for 35 years and exploiting its resources. Although Italy rejected the demand for a long time, Gaddafi, through his strategic maneuvering, gradually made them entirely dependent on Libya for oil and gas. Then, just three years before the revolution in Libya, Gaddafi backed Italy into a corner by threatening to terminate their oil agreements unless they compensated Libya for exploiting its resources. For Italy, sourcing oil from Libya was extremely cost-effective due to its proximity. If the agreements were broken, they would have had to import oil from distant countries, which would have been prohibitively expensive. After weighing their options, Italy reluctantly decided that continuing trade with Libya was the better choice. Gaddafi offered a deal: they could continue the trade by paying Libya $320 billion annually as compensation. Though seething with anger internally, Italy had no choice but to accept his terms. As per the agreement, Italy paid compensation to Libya for three years leading up to the revolution. This imposed a heavy financial and political burden on Italy, causing a significant dent in their economy and prestige. Consequently, they waited for the right time to bring Gaddafi down.

Moreover, some of the ambitious projects Gaddafi was about to implement posed a significant threat to their economic interests. Gaddafi had devised several plans to redirect trade and goods passing through the Tripoli seaport, ensuring that these goods would instead be sold in the soon-to-be-established Tripoli free market. This would have caused massive losses to the markets of America and European countries. If this had continued, Gaddafi would have become a major threat to both American and European economies. Additionally, he had plans to establish extensive railway networks across Libya, elevate Benghazi to the ranks of the world’s most beautiful cities, and build an airport in Tripoli even larger than Dubai’s. These were just a few among many other ambitious projects he had in mind. From the moment Gaddafi came to power, his first move was to remove the American military base that had been stationed in Libya since the reign of King Idris. This naturally enraged the Americans, and they began spreading rumors about him, waiting patiently for the right moment to act. Eventually, NATO saw eliminating him as the only way to secure their interests and carried out the mission. When questioned about NATO’s involvement in Gaddafi’s death, the response often came with a smirk: “This was all pre-planned. NATO was aware of Gaddafi’s habit of changing his hideouts. They tracked him down and tipped off the rebels, guiding them to capture and kill him. Gaddafi was last seen fleeing from his convoy in Sirte. NATO dropped a small bomb near his vehicle, forcing him to flee and hide in a drainage pipe under the road. It was from there that the rebels captured and tortured him to death, presenting it to the world as an act of his people rising against him.” Tears accompany these words as they lament: “Gaddafi safeguarded Libya’s oil wealth for his people. Now, all that wealth is in the hands of America, France, Britain, and Italy.” They then reveal another unsettling truth: America viewed three powerful African leaders as obstacles to their dominance and systematically removed them. These leaders were Iraq’s Saddam Hussein, Libya’s Muammar Gaddafi, and Syria’s Bashar al-Assad. While they succeeded in toppling the first two, their hunt for the third continues. This is why the revolution in Syria is yet to settle. These leaders refused to bow to America’s demands or succumb to their influence, and for this reason, each was targeted and eliminated one by one, exposing the motives behind America's actions. If you ask, “Wasn’t it your own people who revolted against Gaddafi? Then why do you blame the Americans?” the response is, “This was all a conspiracy by the Americans. Only 9% of the people actually revolted. They are crazy! They lack sense. It was the Americans who gave them money and incited them. Gaddafi was doing everything he could to suppress them. But the Americans were waiting for this opportunity, and they supported the rebels, ultimately succeeding in overthrowing Gaddafi,” they lament. While Gaddafi may have appeared as a villain to the outside world, he was seen as a tragic leader by those here. Today, Gaddafi is no longer in Libya. But the essence of “Gaddafism” still remains. The concept of equality he instilled in the people’s minds continues to exist. A person can be erased easily, but can his ideals be erased just as easily? Photos: Photo 1: Libya's old flag, now claimed to be the "new" one Photo 2: The author at the Mediterranean coastline Photo 3: The demolished home of Gaddafi Kannada Original: Uday Itagi English Translation: Uday Itagi